Week 5: Captured Action and Motion Blur

The theme for this weeks images was captured action and motion blur. To take these pictures I had to work with mostly with the shutter speed, so I used shutter priority mode on my camera (Tv).

For some of the images I took this week, I had gotten ideas from week 3 when we dealt with dramatic lighting. Working with blurred light makes for some very fun and interesting shots! For the blurred motion pictures, I had to make use of my tripod so that the whole picture wasn’t blurred. Finding the right shutter speed for each situation was very difficult, and many of the ideas I had in my mind didn’t turn out the way I wanted them to. One thing that I did make use of this week was the light meter, which was extremely helpful in getting correctly exposed images. However, it was hard to take pictures in bright lighting, because the long shutter speeds made the picture overexposed no matter what I did.

My 3 Favorite Photos:


Week 5: Article

How to Use Built-In Light Meters on dSLR Cameras

By Jeff Bartlett


This article on light metering came from a site that I used for an earlier article, Photography @ Suite 101. The author of this particular article, Jeff Bartlett, is an experienced photojournalist who has traveled around the world. He has some great insight on the use of a DSLR. The article touches on evaluative, spot, and center weighted light metering on a camera and how to use them, as we talked about in class this week. Evaluative metering, which is said to be the default on most cameras, evaluates the entire scene as shown in the viewfinder. Center weighted metering focuses on the middle of the picture and ignores the edges. Spot metering is similar to center metering, except you can adjust where the focus is instead of just at the center.

Light metering is something that I definitely wish I knew about earlier! The article gives some great tips. When taking pictures of a bright scene like a beach, I should override the settings by +1 or +1.5 stops to avoid underexposure. The opposite works for overly dark scenes. Center weighted light metering is best for portraits, when the focus is on the person and the background is unimportant. Spot metering is the best to use with high contrast scenes, to make one particular object match the rest of the scene better. The article also reminds me to return the meter to its original settings after a shoot, to avoid messing up later pictures. I will definitely put these tips to use when taking more pictures!

Week 4: Patterns & Reflections

The theme for this weeks pictures was patterns & reflections.

As I searched around campus to find various examples of repetition as discussed in class, I tried manually adjusting the ISO, shutter speed, and aperture for my pictures. I took pictures inside and outside, so having to keep readjusting was difficult for me because it took me a while to figure things out. Hopefully I will get faster at it so I won’t miss a shot!

My 3 Favorite Photos:

Week 4: Article

What is Aperture?

by Chris Roberts


After learning about aperture this week in class, I decided to look up more information about it. I found this article on a website called The Digital SLR Guide created by Chris Roberts. It is a very popular and well known site, as it is viewed by over 150,000 people a month. It is a simple website filled with many different lessons and guides about photography, and I would definitely reference it again. This article explains many important points about aperture. One point being that aperture is a feature of the lens, not the camera. Another point was that you can widen the aperture to let in more light, and vice versa. The third point was that the aperture number was inversely related to the aperture width, which definitely gets me confused sometimes.

In the few months that I have had my DSLR, I wasn’t entirely sure how to adjust my aperture or if it really made a difference. But now I know that it is necessary to widen the aperture when there is low lighting to let as much light in as possible. The opposite goes for bright lighting, as too much light would make the picture overexposed. The one thing that still confuses me is the fact that the wider the aperture is, the smaller the aperture number is. The article gives a nice chart comparing the numbers and the widths making it easier to visualize. An aperture of 2.8 is very wide and lets in a lot of light, as opposed to an aperture of 22 which is very narrow and lets in little light. This information is great to know as I work more with aperture, ISO, and shutter speed together.

Week 3: Dramatic Lighting

This week we learned mostly about flash photography, which is why the theme of our pictures this week was Dramatic Lighting. I had to work with many different types of lighting, from day to night natural lighting, my internal flash with and without a diffuser, as well as reflecting and bouncing light from different angles.

Lighting is one of the most difficult things in photography that i have had to deal with so far. Knowing how to work with low light situations is tough, but I learned a lot in this week’s project. I liked how I could diffuse the harsh light of my internal flash with something as simple as a tissue paper. I also got to experiment with light trails after getting some advice from my little brother Kayne (who is a much better photographer than me!). Understanding lighting is an essential part of photography and I am glad that I got a chance to experiment with it.

My 3 Favorite Photos:

Week 3: Article

Digital SLR Camera Flash Photography Techniques

By Yuen Kit Mun


This week in class, we learned a little bit about the use of flash in photography. I found this article about flash techniques from a site called Suite 101. It is a how-to site spanning many different subjects, photography being one of them. The author is a professional wedding photographer and provides some great information. The article has simple guidelines on how to use various types of flash, from the internal pop-up flash to external flash, as well as simple tricks like diffusers, bounce, and color balance.

As mentioned in class, the article talks about how the internal flash is notorious for being very harsh and straight-on. To combat this, a diffuser can be used to soften the light and prevent red-eye. There are diffusers made specifically for cameras, but the article mentions that a simple sheet of white paper works just as well. External flash guns are used by professional photographers, as they are more powerful and can be swiveled in order to bounce the light off walls. For indoor use of flash, the article recommends to manually set the camera settings to a maximum lens aperture and a fairly low ISO. These will be great tips to know as I work more with flash photography.

Week 2: Deterioration

This week in class, each of us were paired with a specific theme to take pictures on. My theme for the week was deterioration. This was also a little harder than I first imagined. It took me a while to think of some ideas, but I was able to find some inspiration online to get me started.

The hardest part of this assignment was dealing with the weather! Whenever I had a chance to shoot, it was cloudy and/or rainy. I definitely had to work with the lighting by adjusting the white balance. Finding things around campus that matched the theme was a little difficult, but in the end I was able to make it work!

My 3 Favorite Photos:

Week 2: Article

How to Choose the Right ISO for your Digital Photography

by Darren Rouse


This article is about ISO settings which we talked about in class this week. It was found at a site called Digital Photography School, started by Darren Rowse who owned a digital camera review site for several years. It is aimed at semi-experienced photographers and it has an abundance of tips on how to use a camera to its fullest. The article talks about what ISO setting is best for the type of picture being taken. It says that when there is low light, and you cant use a flash, it is best to bump up the ISO. The downside to increasing ISO, however, is that it adds ‘noise’ to the photo. The article shows a side-by-side pictures, one with low ISO and one with high ISO. The picture with high ISO was more grainy.

This article was very helpful because it gave a list of things to consider when choosing an ISO. It asked questions such as, “Is my subject moving?” If the object is still, you can use a lower ISO. “Do I need a big Depth of Field?” If you don’t, you an use a lower ISO. “Can I use some Artificial Light?” Using a flash can also allow you to lower ISO. These tips will be extremely useful when shooting pictures in the future.